Guide to Paris

Beaches

When it comes to top Parisian attractions, beaches don't tend to get a mention. So you might be surprised to hear that every summer three sandy stretches appear in the city, attracting crowds from early morning 'til midnight. It's all part of the 'Paris Plage' programme launched in 2002, which transforms three waterside spots into fully-fledged beaches, each with its own theme. The biggest and most popular one stretches for 3kms beside the Seine, between Louvre and Pont de Sully, and sees the riverside highway closed to traffic and covered with 2,000 tonnes of sand. Deckchairs and parasols are set out around potted palms, and there's a swimming pool, stage, and all kinds of activities from roller-blading to boules. The beach at Port de la Gare, by the Josephine Baker floating swimming pool, aims to draw in the brainy rather than the brawny – focusing on cultural rather than energetic activities, with art classes and books. The third – set along the Bassin de la Villette in the north of the city – is dedicated to watersports.

Eating out

You've got to hand it to the French. Whether it's food or fashion you're considering, the country is synonymous with style. French and cuisine go together like peaches and cream. But it's actually not that easy to put a label on it. From delicate camembert, freshly-baked baguettes and melt-in-your-mouth croissants to foie-gras, snails and steak done so rare it looks as though there's still a heartbeat in there somewhere – it's all 'typically' French. It's hardly surprising because France is a vast country that takes in so many different regions and climates. So what might be 'typically French' in Provence – Mediterranean-style food, with lots of tomatoes and olive oil –has little in common with what is 'typical' in, say, the Auvergne/Limousin region – foie gras, wild boar and chestnuts. And in Paris, it's possible to find just about all of these variations. Which means eating out is a treat. There are just a few ground rules to remember. Stay away from the central Champs-Elysees and Madeleine area, and avoid the very 'touristy' establishments. Move into more authentic areas and look for locals – always an encouraging sign that not only is the food good, but you won't be ripped off. St-Germain-des-Pres and the Latin Quarter are both bursting with great restaurants, and for cafes and bistros the Marais and Bastille areas are good hunting grounds. Montparnasse has some lovely old-style cafes, too. Remember that lunch menus are often three-course affairs, but significantly cheaper than you'll pay for dinner, so if you want to push the boat out and eat somewhere very classy, consider doing it at lunchtime. If you're not sure exactly where to find what you're looking for, a general rule of thumb is that cafes often serve substantial meals at lunchtime as well as snacks, coffees and drinks throughout the day. Bistros are small restaurants that might be rustic or might be sassy, with more limited menus than bigger restaurants. Brasseries tend to be big, bright, bustling places where you can sink down on a velvet banquette and browse a pretty extensive menu, while Michelin-starred restaurants are sophisticated, elegant and very expensive. To wash it all down? Well, wine obviously. Choose from virtually the whole range of French wine, but if you're uncertain, the house wine will almost always be a safe choice. Prices will dictate where you eat, but don't leave without having a traditional steak-frites, save money by buying a baguette and some meltingly fresh cheese for a picnic lunch, and consider having at least one blow-out meal in a really top-of-the-range restaurant – the memory will linger long after you've got over the price.



La Coupole, 102 boulevard du Montparnasse, Montparnasse Use your imagination and you'll imagine the ghosts of Sartre, Hemingway and Fitzgerald, Picasso, Dali and Josephine Baker still haunting this famous old brasserie. All red velvet seats and tall Art Deco columns, it's been popular with the bohemian set since it opened in 1927 and all the old glamour remains. The terrific shellfish is the big winner in the food stakes, but there's lots of other choices such as game casseroles, lamb curry, foie gras.



Le Train Bleu, Place Louis Armand, Gare de Lyon, Bercy A 'gilt trip' to remember. Splurge out at this utterly gorgeous 'belle epoque' temple to the glamour of 1930s rail travel and imagine you're about to board the Blue Train to the Riviera. Vast paintings of cherubs, plush seats, and gilt all around you. The dining room, which is listed, was built to impress visitors to the 1900 'Exposition Universelle' – and it's still impressing them. French classics like lobster flambeed in Cognac add to the perfection.



L'Encrier, 55 rue Traversiere, The Marais This place is hard to beat for sheer good value. And as well as that, it offers a really stylish designer interior – all wood and exposed brick. The imaginative menu changes according to what's fresh and in season. If you can't find a table free at lunchtime, don't worry – it's so reasonably priced that dinner definitely won't break the bank.



Cafe de Flore, 172 boulevard St-Germain, St-Germain This is where Jean-Paul Sartre and Simone de Beauvoir used to sit in a haze of Gauloises to chew the fat with other Parisian intellectuals. You won't experience the smoky haze anymore, but it's still popular with the literary and arty set, though they have to share the 1930s-style cafe with tourists nowadays. Lots of light meals available.

L'Ambassade d'Auvergne, 22 rue du Grenier-St-Lazare, Les Halles Rustic, hearty, provincial French cooking. Generous portions, starting off with complimentary bread and pate, sets the scene for the feast that awaits you. Roast lamb and the cheesy potato dish of aligot is the kind of food to expect here.

Nightlife

There's so much to do in Paris at night, you won't know where to begin. The after-dark scene is vast, dynamic and lively. And full of variety. It caters for everyone, whether there are gold-plated credit cards padding out your wallet, or you're counting every Euro. As for age – forget it. Paris is as indulgent of its young as it's reassuring and pampering of its more mature visitors. So from jazz to house, grand opera to the cancan, it's here. In clubs, bars and theatres. And where to seek it out? Well, you could sip cocktails in smart, sophisticated Champs-Elysees at mainstream clubs and bars. Or visit the countless wine bars and lounges in noisy, brash Bastille around Rue de Lappe and Rue de Charonne. Arty Marais has lots more bars oozing atmosphere, and New Orleans-style jazz bars cluster around the neighbourhoods of St-Michel and St-Germain-des-Pres. The heady days of the legendary Parisian cabaret may be over, but you can still sit back and pop a cork or two and enjoy a show at the famous Moulin Rouge. And the city is also home to more than 140 theatres, staging everything from classic plays to avant-garde live performances. See if you can snap up a half-price ticket bargain for same-day shows from kiosks on Place de la Madeleine in the square in front of Gare Montparnasse. For a sparkling evening of opera or ballet, check what's on at the Palais Garnier, which shares productions with the more modern Opera Bastille. You can spend a lot or hardly anything and still have a memorable evening. Up behind floodlit Notre-Dame at Ile de la Cite is a meeting place for wildly diverse street performers who will keep you entertained for ages. Then again, romantics can do as they've done for centuries and simply wander along the banks of the Seine and gaze at the City of Light in all its illuminated glory. Whatever makes your heart beat a little faster when the sun goes down, you're going to find it.

Batofar, opposite 11 Quai Francois Mauriac This scarlet converted barge has been packing techno fans on board for years – and shows no sign of losing its appeal. The boat doesn't go anywhere, by the way, but it certainly rocks a lot. The music changes on different nights – house, garage and jazz as well as techno – and it attracts a young, lively and friendly crowd of locals as well as visitors. It closes down from November to March.

Moulin Rouge, 82 blvd de Clichy, Montmartre Immortalised first by Toulouse-Lautrec's showgirls, and more recently by Baz Luhrmann, this is, of course, a massive cliche. But probably one you'll want to do, certainly on a first visit to Paris. Throw off your inhibitions about being a tourist, order a bottle of the sparkling stuff and enjoy the cancan. You know you'll love it.

New Morning, 7-9 rue des Petites Ecuries, Beaubourg/Les Halles Paris loves jazz and has a long history of welcoming the best international musicians around. This is one of the most popular, maybe because it hosts all styles of jazz, from free-form to swing. Blues, rock and salsa get a look-in, too.

Kong, 1 rue du Pont-Neuf, Beaubourg/Les Halles On the top floor of the flagship Kenzo store, near the Pont Neuf and overlooking the river, this is all post-modern glamour, champagne-coloured sofas and booths, and Geisha prints. You can eat or just come to drink very expensive cocktails and watch beautiful people. It's open 'til 3am and the views are fabulous.

Opera Bastille, 2-6 place de la Bastille, Bastille This huge, glass, curved monster bears little similarity to most opera houses, but its acoustics and high-tech spec make it a fitting venue for the home of the Opera de Paris. The main hall can seat 2,700 and an hour-and-a-half before the curtain goes up each night 62 standing-room only seats are made available for a few Euros.

Le Baron, 6 avenue Marceau, Champs Elysees district A very swish bar, club and disco that has shaken off its former guise as a hostess bar. You'll have to glam up seriously to get in here – it's where Paris's A-list celebs like to be seen.

Shopping

The home of haute couture, Paris may have rivals like New York, London and Milan for the title of Fashion Capital of the World, but its credentials are hard to beat. Its streets are lined with glamorous fashion stores whose names just ooze quality. Most are around the Rue de Faubourg-St-Honore and within the 'golden triangle' that sits between the Champs-Elysees, Avenue Marceau and Avenue Montaigne. Here, you'll find top names like Chanel, Dior and Yves Saint Laurent, as well as a massive flagship Louis Vuitton store. Let's face it, though, these are probably places you're going to want to just gaze at rather than shop seriously. And that's fine, because Paris is full of smaller specialist shops, boutiques and markets just perfect for browsing and spending in. The cobbled streets in the Marais district are the place to go for antiques, art or jewellery in quirky boutiques. And check out the African textiles, carpets and basketware you'll find there at Rue Elzevir. Paris is as famous for its perfume as for its fashion, and mega-sized Sephora on the Champs-Elysees has 12,000 scent and make-up products to send your senses soaring. If you want to save time and look at all Paris can offer in one glorious one-stop spending spree, why not try one of its many chic and inviting department stores. Bon Marche at Rue de Sevres, was the city's first-ever when it was built in 1852, and it's become an institution among Parisians and visitors alike. Endless designer sections and as for its food hall, La Grande Epicerie – a very grand foodie experience indeed. Put Printemps and Galeries Lafayette, both on Boulevard Haussmann, on your list, too. Maybe you're a closet Imelda Marcos – if so, pay a visit to Christian Louboutin's store on Rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau, and take a peek at those trademark red-bottomed shoes. Imelda would have loved them. If you're totally strapped for cash and want to see Paris's answer to Primark, try cheap and cheerful Tati on Boulevard Rochechouart. When it comes to markets, the French really know their onions, and Paris has a heap of them. Go north to St-Ouen flea market for a treasure trove of books, CDs, Art deco lamps and vintage toys spread over 2,000 amazing stalls. Fresh food markets are in every neighbourhood, but one of the best has to be on the pretty Rue Mouffetard in the Latin Quarter, all tantalizing smells of ripe cheeses and roasting chickens. Depending where you're based, others well worth a visit are at the Bastille, Les Enfants Rouge on rue de Bretagne, and the organic market at Place Brancusi. Everyone has a picture in their mind of Parisian artists selling their work on city pavements. To see it happening for real, get along to the art market on Sundays at the foot of Montparnasse Tower.