Guide to Rhodes

Beaches

Sun-starved Brits tend to make a beeline for Rhodes' east coast. And for good reason. This is where you'll find the island's best beaches. We're talking sheltered bays. Camera-perfect sweeps. And intense aquamarine waters. A favourite with fun-loving twenty-somethings, Faliraki extends for 4 kilometres and is arguably the most popular beach - as such, it can get rather busy. But here's a hot tip. Head down to the less crowded southern end and you should be able to unfurl your beach towel no problem. Hot on Faliraki's heels you've got the sun-baked shores of Rhodes Town and Lindos, eagerly followed by Kolymbia and Tsambikas. If, however, you're after somewhere to starfish on the sand, it's worth hunting out the quieter beaches at Stegna and Agathi. But what's in store if you go west? The beaches on this side of the island fall into the rocky bracket but the strong gusts and choppier seas make it a windsurfer's dream-come-true.

Eating out

• Taramosalata. Feta. Tzatziki. You'll find all your Greek favourites in Rhodes. And there's no better way to experience them than as part of a taverna 'meze' line up. A bit like Spanish tapas, you can try a little bit of everything. Dip warm pitta bread into some freshly-made houmous. Sink your teeth into some stuffed vine leaves. And squeeze a slice of lemon over some calamari. It's fun. It's tasty. And it's wonderfully social. Of course, fresh-out-the-sea fish forms the backbone of most menus. Pick a table at a waterside restaurant and watch as your lunch arrives by boat – literally. Most tavernas are so proud of their seafood that they showcase the day's catch in chilled cabinets for passers by to admire. Take your pick from tanks filled with swordfish, red mullet, squid and octopus. Or maybe tuck into specialities like 'tonnos psitos' – grilled tuna steaks slow cooked with potatoes, leeks, carrots and dill – and 'garides saganaki' – large prawns baked in a rich tomato sauce and topped with feta and parsley. If all that leaves you thinking 'it's all Greek to me', don't worry. You'll find plenty of places serving up British-style grub in the main beach resorts. We're talking full English breakfasts and roasts like mum used to make. Yep, it's fair to say that Rhodes has got it pretty much sewn up on the food front, whatever you fancy. And the same goes for drinks, too. Most tavernas sell their own 'barrel wine'. Granted, it's not vintage but a carafe or two of this cheap-but-perfectly-adequate plonk certainly does the job. If you're into your wines though, Emery's Villare is one to look out for. In fact, it's one of the best dry whites in Greece. Chevalier de Rodos, from the CAIR's estate, is said to be the preferred tipple of the Knights of St John. If you're more of a beer drinker, the native brew is Hellenic Mythos. And don't forget every Greek's favourite tipple, ouzo. Be warned though, it's a hangover waiting to happen!
  
  
• Alexis Taverna, Rhodes Town – Organic vegetables grown by the owner. A well-stocked cellar of vintage wines. And a guestbook that includes Winston Churchill and Jackie O. Arguably the finest seafood restaurant on the island, it's got a price tag to match.
  
  
• Ippotikon, Rhodes Town – Tucked in the old quarter inside Medieval chambers, this elegant eatery conjures up memories of the Knights of St John.
  
  
• Skala Beach Restaurant, Lindos – As the name suggests, this taverna is snuggled right up against the shore and offers up good old-fashioned Greek fare.
  
  
• Kalypso, Lindos – Set in a 17th-century stone house, the outdoor terrace is perfect for an al fresco meal under the stars and has breathtaking views across Lindos.
  
  
• Uncle Harry's, Faliraki – Serving home-from-home Brit-grub, this place is known for its fry-ups making it a clubber's morning-after favourite.

Nightlife

• There's an urban myth surrounding Rhodes – it's got more bars, discos and clubs per person than New York, Paris and Berlin. Okay, it may be a little wide of the truth but there's certainly plenty going on come sundown. The up-for-it crowd hotfoot it down to Faliraki. Greece's answer to Ibiza, it's made up of two main strips, nicknamed Bar Street and Club Street. Not so long ago, Faliraki had a bit of reputation as a lager-lout hangout. However, the authorities clamped down on things. Don't get us wrong, it's still party central with enough flashing neon to give Vegas a run for its money, but it's seems to have got the balance right now. Coming up fast on the inside track you've got the postcard-pretty town of Lindos. It can get pretty lively in the summer but expertly walks the nightlife tightrope, offering up traditional tavernas and trendy rooftop chill outs along with big screen sports bars and glitterball discos. For a really sophisticated night out though, Rhodes Town's old quarter is packed with classy restaurants, bouzouki clubs and trendy bars, not to mention a James Bond-style casino. For traditional Greek dancing, make a beeline for the Dimoglou Dance Theatre. We're talking embroidered costumes. Pom-pom shoes. And arm-linking aplenty. If you want to up the ante a touch, leave the citadel behind you and go to the new part of Rhodes Town. It has somewhere in the region of 600 discos and bars, generally centred around Top Street and the rather aptly-named Street of Bars.
  
  
• Grand Hotel Summer Palace Casino, Rhodes Town – Roulette. Blackjack. Poker. Chance your luck at this slick casino set in the heart of the capital.
  
  
• Blue Lagoon Bar, Rhodes Town – Decked out like a tropical island, complete with shipwreck, lagoon, parrots and turtles, it's a bonkers but totally unmissable nightspot.
  
  
• Lindos by Night, Lindos – The most buzzing bar in Lindos, the rooftop is a great place for a pre-dinner cocktail while downstairs pumps out chart favourites into the wee small hours.
  
  
• The Underground Bar, Faliraki – Karaoke. British beers. Elvis shows. This place is larger than life. And the London tube sign makes it easy to spot, too.
  
  
• Liquid, Faliraki – Trendy nightclub spread over two levels with a glass floor upstairs. A great place to dance the PM way into the AM.

Shopping

From look-but-don't-touch boutiques to tourist knick-knack stores, Rhodes Town is most definitely the place if you want to make a dent in that shopping kitty. The Medieval quarter is probably your best bet, offering up lots in the way of clothes, sunglasses and handicrafts. And with jewellery shops aplenty, this part of the capital adds a grace note of bling to a day of retail therapy. Rhodes Town does a mean line in leather goods, too. Sandals. Shoes. Bags. Belts. You'll find it all here. Search out Odos Sokratous AKA Socrates Street for the best range. This also happens to be the location of Rhodes Town's very own Turkish-style emporium-come-bazaar – it's quite acceptable to haggle so go for broke. If you're after a trademark Greek momento, give the Ministry of Culture Museum Reproduction Shop on Ipitou Street a go. It's packed with good quality reproductions of ancient Greek statues, friezes and vases. Getting them home in one piece though, is another matter! Talking of vases, Lindos village has been knocking out top end pottery since the 16th century. Hand-woven rugs are ten a penny, too. And for even more choice, the villages of Afandou and Achangelos could give Allied Carpets a run for its money. On the market front, the capital comes out all guns blazing. Every Saturday and Wednesday a colourful fruit and veg circus rolls into Rhodes Town, setting up camp along Zefiros Street. There's another good one on Vironas Street on Thursdays. Last, but by no means least, you've got the Nea Agora market near Mandraki Harbour. Here, stalls groan under the weight of straight-from-the-net fish, crates full of polished aubergines and pungent wheels of goat's cheese. Talking of food, Rhodes' honey is pretty hard to beat. Make a beeline for the villages of Siana and Vathi – they excel at the stuff.