Guide to Skopelos

Beaches

Without a doubt Skopelos has some of the finest beaches in Greece. And it doesn't specialise in one type, either. While some Greek islands go overboard on pebbles or sand, this emerald isle doesn't hedge it bets. It's got something for everyone. Pebbly coves. Sandy bays. Rocky shores. Aquamarine waters. The works. Whatever kind of beach you like, grab your shades and suncream because you've scored. You'll find the best of a brilliant bunch punched into the south and west coasts. Take Staphylos. Scalloped deep into the island's southern shores, this horseshoe-shaped sweep boasts sugar-soft sands washed by blue-and-emerald waters. Amble over the pine-covered headland here and there's Velanio ready and waiting, too. Another showstopper, it's sheltered by high cliffs and kissed by calm seas. Be aware, though, part of is reserved for naturists. Then there's Milia on the west coast. Fringed by pinewoods, this ribbon of sand and pebbles is blessed with sparkling waters and boasts adrenalin-pumping views and watersports to go with it. Nearby Panormos is cut from the same cloth with a gorgeous pebbly crescent lined with inviting tavernas and sparkling turquoise seas. And it'd be criminal not to mention Limnonaris and Agnondas. Stretch out on their smooth pebbles, grab that bestseller and flick on your iPod - they're both paradise found. For peace perfect peace, hotfoot it to Skopelos' lesser-known gems. All around the island, you'll find hidden, cliff-edged bays only accessible by sea or down hairpin tracks. But that's half the fun. Rent a boat or hike there and you may get one all to yourself. Oh, and if you're feeling lazy, you can always stay closer to town. It's no great shakes scenery-wise, but Skopelos Town has its own little pebbly beach if you fancy some sunbathing or swimming. And if you're in Glossa, trail down to Loutraki. Here, you'll find a cute stretch of shingle perfect for casually polishing your tan and cooling dips just a flip-flop away from harbourside tavernas.

Eating out

• Skopelos sticks to the all-important principle right at the heart of good Greek cooking - keep things simple and fresh and the flavours will take care of themselves. The Greeks aren't into twirly bits and reduced sauces. Instead, meals to revolve around straightforward classics. Cue Greek salads crowned with feta and black olives, creamy moussakas and juicy lamb chops sprinkled with fresh herbs. As you'd imagine, fish and seafood are everywhere, too. Swordfish, red mullet, prawns and octopus feature highly and arrive on your plate still spitting from the pan. Most bars and ouzeries do a mean line in 'meze', too – those tasty Greek titbits that perk up your palate over drinks. Expect fresh anchovies, mountains of pink taramosalata and delicious hand-made dolmades squirted with lemon. Whatever you do though, don't miss the authentic Skopeliot recipes. Plums are grown all over the island and pop up in loads of dishes – prune-stuffed pork and moist plum cakes are particular delicacies. Or dig into a Skopeliot cheese pie. One bite of these feta-filled pastry spirals and you'll think you've died and gone to heaven. Then there are the puddings. If you've got anything approaching a sweet tooth expect to eat your body weight in divinely sticky desserts. Picture lip smacking 'baklava' lathered in honey. Fresh, locally grown walnuts sprinkled over Greek yoghurt. And mouthwatering 'loukamades' – miniature dough balls - tossed in cinnamon syrup. The drinks are a treat, too. Okay, Greek wines don't win many awards, but they're perfectly gluggable. The local beer, Mythos, really hits the spot as well. And don't forget 'ouzo'. Quintessentially Greek, this aniseed-flavoured spirit comes into its own with some 'meze' and a sunset on the side. As to where to eat out, you'll never be far from a friendly taverna wherever you're staying. For the best choice though, Skopelos Town is your best bet. Mooch around its backstreets and quayside and you'll stumble across countless tavernas and kafenion.
  
  
• Pavlos, Agnontas Beach – This popular beach taverna has the lot. Succulent fish just pulled from the sea, soothing views over Agnontas beach and the laid-back atmosphere that Greek tavernas are all about. Total bliss.
  
  
• The Walnut Tree, Staphylos – Combine a trip to Staphylos beach with a pitstop at this no-frills cafe-bar off the Skopelos-Staphylos road. Basic it may be, but the cheese pie and walnut-and-yoghurt puddings are worth the effort.
  
  
• Perivoli, Skopelos Town – Fall-off-the-fork fresh sole. Hearty Greek wines. And an oh-so romantic vine-covered terrace. One of the priciest tavernas around, this is still worth a special outing.
  
  
• Molos, Skopelos Town – This ordinary-looking eaterie churns out all the Aegean classics, as well as tasty roast dinners for homesick British guests. Food is served with a side order of cracking sea views.
  
  
• Agnanti, Glossa – Something of an institution, this family-run taverna serves specials like garlic feta with red peppers and pork with plums, all alongside earth-moving views over the Aegean.

Nightlife

• Low-key evenings tend to dominate here. Particularly away from Skopelos Town. In Glossa and the other villages, sundown means wind-down. Think lingering strolls along pretty harboursides as the sun glints on the water. Settling on a bougainvillea-decked terrace with just the chatter of other diners and soft bouzouki in the air. Or sipping ouzos as dusk descends over a pebble beach. If all this sounds too sedate for you, then Skopelos Town will hit the spot. Come nightfall, this sassy little capital pulls off the perfect balancing act between refined and raucous. Whether you want things quiet or lively, it will oblige in style. First stop should be the kastro, or old town. Here, you'll find chic rooftop bars and terraces perfect for downing cocktails while drinking in the thrilling views over the bay. Then there are the tavernas. Loads of them, ranging from classy garden numbers to lively fish eateries. And later? If the pillow doesn't tempt you, there's plenty to keep you happy. In the kastro and along the quayside, you'll find little music clubs and disco bars playing jazz, soul and Greek pop. Or listen out for some 'rembetika'. Not unlike bouzouki, this bluesy folk music originated with the Greek immigrants who returned to the Aegean in the 1900s. Now, Skopelos is its spiritual home. And wherever it's played, a packed house usually follows.
  
  
• Anatoli, Skopelos Town – Don't miss this legendary Kastro ouzerie. It's the domain of George Xindaris, Skopelos' main exponent of 'rembetika' and on summer nights, the bluesy live tunes ring out under the stars.
  
• Metro Club, Skopelos Town – Rough stone walls and a tiny dancefloor make this perfect for holing up in after dinner. After a few cocktails, you'll be boogying to the ear-splitting Greek pop like everyone else.
  
• Babalos Bouzoukia, near Skopelos Town – Late-night locals flock to this courtyard club for its rowdy live 'rembetika'. If there's one place to let your hair down Skopeliot style this is it. Remember though, nothing happens till after 11pm.
  
• Oionos Blue Bar, Skopelos Town – Chill at this funky bar in the middle of town. Mellow jazz and soul caress your ears as you pick through the 17 types of beer and 25 malts.
  
• Platanos Jazz Bar, Skopelos Town – One of the capital's oldest waterholes, this atmospheric joint pumps out irresistible jazz, blues and salsa like there's no tomorrow.

Shopping

Skopelos is small, traditional and unashamedly Greek – it doesn't really do out-and-out shopping sprees. That said, if you like mixing up time on the beach with some slow-lane souvenir hunting, then you'll feel right at home. You'll find some sleepy souvenir shops in places like Glossa and Agnontas, but apart from that, it's the capital, Skopelos Town, that steals the shopping show. Behind Paralia – its tree-lined waterfront – and in its kastro, you'll find bustling shopping streets and white-stepped lanes riddled with glamorous boutiques and arty gift shops selling hand-made pottery, embroidery and local crafts. Better still, they're all one-offs, so there's enough variety to keep serious shopping hounds sniffing around for days. If it's traditional handicrafts you're after, head for the pottery shops. Skopelos is renowned for its plain black amphora and bowls, as well as its brightly decorated dishes daubed in cheery yellows, olive greens and blues. And then there's the jewellery. Like most of Greece, chunky silver rings, pendants and bracelets are big favourites here. Buttery leather shoulder bags and strappy sandals are ten-a-penny, too. But for the best reminders of your holiday, check out the food. The island's honey for one. Collected from beehives scattered all over the countryside, this fragrant nectar is a surefire winner in the gift stakes. Or how about some Skopeliot olive oil? You'll find numerous stores in Skopelos Town, and an olive press in Glossa, where you can pick up the local liquid gold for an absolute pinch. And for something utterly unique, grab yourself some gift jars of syrup-soaked Skopeliot fruit. Packed with everything from the island's famous plums to home-grown cherries, oranges, quinces – and even courgettes – they make great take-homes.