Guide to Agios Dimitrios

'Totally tranquil and largely undiscovered, it's the kind of place that is often described as 'the real Greece'.'

Take a deep breath of the eucalyptus scented air … and breathe out a sigh of contentment. You're deliciously far from the madding crowd here in the centre of the island. A few easy driving miles from Zante Town shops and Tsilivi's beaches, Aghios Dimitrios is a world away from neon nights and disco music. The heart of the action here is the chap with the komboloi worry beads at his table outside the ouzo bar. He may look as old as the olive trees – and as much a part of the landscape. But he's turned the work/life balance into an art form. Don't fight the tempo – or the temptation of long country walks. They'll take you through pungently fresh pine trees, to the relics of the ancient Temple of Artemis. Past little farms where time seems to stand still. And into green and gorgeous valleys with perfect picnic spots. Chirruping cicadas will add the soundtrack for a snooze in the shade. Then it's time for the evening stroll through the village. And a 'meze' meal – stuffed vine leaves, kalamari and local goat's cheese – at the ouzo bar… We've been here before...

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